Revive that old tub and keep it going

Hot tubs are not cheap. Newer tubs are even more expensive and don't be fooled by bargains, because you definately get what you pay for. We service a lot of 15-20 year old hot tubs, and many users are just fine with the 'old school' models they own.



I typically make the anaolgy between an old tub and an old car; If you own an older Southern (read: no rust) car, and you love the body style, the color, the big comfy bench seats it has, and it drives fine, then you have a justified sentimental attachment to it. Besides that, it's paid for, it serves it's given purpose, and it's replacement cost has become unthinkable. If this car's transmission burns out then most probably you will invest in it to continue it's service to you. It works. It may not have all the bells and whistles of the new models, but hey, it does what it needs to do.



The following list will help tubbers preserve and repair their unit, as well as perform some basic preventative maintenence. All ideas and suggestions put forth can be acheived with basic hand tools, and if in doubt, call your local service tech. To fix something sooner is always better than later.



1) STRUCTURE. this one is usually fairly obvious, as wood rot deteriorates the framework and cabinet. Best done in summer, during a dry week, in a period when you can drain your tub. First step is to verify the levelness of the base, or platform your tub sits on. If it's concrete, don't assume it's still level after 15 years. If not level, just be aware that you'll measure up from it to determine the top edge of the tub height, making it equal all the way around the perimeter. Remove all cabinet panels if possible, and inspect the inner framework. Usually the base perimeter boards are rotten first, and need to be replaced. Rarely do the verticals rot,as they keep dry. To fix this, borrow some freinds to tip your tub on edge, and replace the worst baseboards with new, and reinforce complete bottom by adding pressure treated plywood across the whole thing. I've seen some insect/rodent damage that essentialy destroyed all the wood on the base. The detrimental issue with letting this fix go is the tub shell will become stressed with the water weight, and deform and possibly crack.



2) CABINET. If you have all the peices and it's cedar, you have a good chance to reconstruct it and make it last another decade. Best way to acheive this is to screw and glue old peices on new board. 1/4 inch pressure treated plywood is best, but that may be too thick to fit nicely back on and look good. You can use 'luan' board wich is a backer board for flooring and cabinetry work. It's very thin and fairly strong. To make it last long term, stain or paint BOTH sides with an oil-based product to prevent delamination. It's too thin for nails or screws, unless you can go through the back into your cabinet peices, granted they are thick enough. 'Liquid Nails' or other polyurethane-based caulk will work best to bond the wood to these panels, and resist moisture. Last resort is trash your old panels all together and go new. Best idea is pre-made panels of cedar 'wainscoating' found at home fix-it stores. they are typically 1/2 inch thick and come pre-sealed on one side. MAKE SURE to seal the other side with an oil-based stain to prevent warping of the panels. Then it's just cut & apply.



3) PUMP & MOTOR. To maintain your pump, it's a visual inspection at beginning of every season, or twice a year. The single most expensive service issue that arises is main seals leaking. this happens after 4 years or more when water slowly starts leaking from your pump head where the motor shaft enters it. The leak will be a drip a month, drip a week, drip a day, and then after a few months, is leaking enough that the motor shaft flings it off at speed and your motor vent sucks it right in and rusts it up. The other failure is the front bearing on the motor seizes up from being wet. Inspecting closely to catch the first few drips is the key to stopping a big loss. Seals are cheap, and simple hand tools can change them out. The spinning wheel in the pump (impeller) is accessed by removing the front, or face, of the pump and unscrewing it counter-clockwise. The motor shaft can be held from spinning on the opposite end of the motor. This is found under the cap, and a wrench or screwdriver can be used depending on your design. Be sure to see how old seal is installed to put in new. Do not to touch seal surfaces or dirty them as this shortens their service life.

More to come...