Mineral Purifiers/Natural Sanitizers -Cartridges

The types of 'stick' sanitizers are typically MPS (monopersulfate or peroxymonosulfate) based or chlorine/bromine based. The 'pellets' inside the cartridges are either silver, copper, zinc or a combination.There are a few proprietery systems (bags, plates, tablets) that I won't discuss, but please add...IONIZER systems use low voltage electricity charges in the water and shouldn't be confused with these methods.

Those available today are of various colors, but the "backup" shock chemical is the difference between them all. These are not 'stand-alone' systems, even with ozone, as a true oxidizer is required periodically. (PS - NO biguanides!!) There are some floater systems available, as well as spa-specific receptacles for these cartridges.

Most sticks last a 3-4 month (some folx stretch five) duration, and need to be located in/at/near the filter or suction intake of your tub to allow the moving currents of water to pass over/through the cartridge. Some old-schoolers out there just zip-tie em up against their skimmer.

As with any sanitizing system, start with balanced water (alkalinity, pH, metals) and don't assume your municipal water is perfect - test it to see! (our local city water pH and hardness are really high!) Now add a first maintenence dose of your chems. Let's talk types:

MPS - 'yellow' system - Please read the fine print on this one...Chlorine is used at start-up to 'etch' or start product to dissolve. MPS shock then is used as a large dose weekly (lid open, air on) and as an 'occasional' or mid-week dose to keep the smell in check. Some customers add 1/4 oz chlor as well to treat smells, but be careful as too much shortens the life of the mineral's activity.

CHLORINE/BROMINE - green, purple, blue systems- Trick with these to be effective: keep your residual levels to a MINIMUM (especially w/ bromine)The claim is "reduces chems added" so adhering to a strict 2 ppm reading will reduce the smell, and be cost-effective. Still adhere to a weekly 'shock' with your lid open and air on to OXIDIZE off the contaminents, disinfect your tub, and clarify the water. Ozone helps, and cracking the lid occaisionally helps as well to let it 'breath'.

Your balancers all should work with these systems - foamouts, clarifiers, enzymes, etc. The "make-or-break" we usually tell people about the effectiveness is: are you a fri-sat user? or are you in there 3-5 nights/week with the family? These systems may not be an aide if you are a weekend user, but will certainly play a role if the tub is used alot. In conjunction with ozone the water quality improves, and regular filter rinsings won't hurt. Take a shower BEFORE using, and your water will be crytal clear forever...

Make your spa cover last

You've just spent $3-500 on a new cover, and you wonder why the last one only lasted you 3 years...

* If you're in the Southern states, a quality UVA/UVB vinyl protectant is mandatory, apply as directed 3-4 times a year. DO NOT use 'Armor-All' brand protectant as it contains petroleum distillates and damages vinyl long-term. A quality saddle soap or marine application protectant is good, or try our guaranteed '303' spray.

* If you use Bromine, keep the levels to a MINIMUM, as the gas trapped under the cover will "orange peel" the underside and make it brittle.

* When you shock weekly, it's very important to leave your cover open/off for a jet run cycle (15-20 min.) so expelled gases can escape. This protects the underside of your cover, as well as clears your water for clarity.

* Inspect cover for cuts/pokes through vinyl, breaching the inner plastic vapor barrier. This plastic bag envelopes the foam core, keeping it dry. As soon as a small hole is made, the foam cores are so dry, they will wick in moisture slowly and get heavier and heavier...To fix plastic - get it dry and use good quality clear postal mailing tape to seal it back up. To repair cuts/ holes in vinyl try our 'Permatex' Brand vinyl repair kit. This is a premium kit, and is most effective when cover is dry. Most cuts can be glued from the back side by adding a small scrap over cut and putting tape on front side, pulling it back into shape. A good vinyl glue can be found at NAPA auto parts stores, called 'VLP'.

* Lastly, you can remove your foam cores (they all zipper out at hinge) and flip them over and put them back in to reverse the 'sag'. This should be done once a year, or twice a year if your tub is 7' or bigger. This is a good time to inspect plastic bagging for holes, cuts & fix!

* Happy tubbing!

Winter energy savers

These may or may not apply to your hot tub or user style, but there's prolly one here that could save you a buck or two a month...

* Program your filter/heat cycles to run at night if you have a "night-rate" meter.

* Leave all air controls/valves OFF, as you don't want to pull in outside air to push through your jets when the tub is not being used.

* Consult your owner's manual to see if your controls have a "economy" or "standby" mode, leaving your tub 10-15 degrees cooler than your set temp.

* Use a "thermal blanket" or "solar cover" to keep evaporation down under your spa cover.

* Break down and buy that new cover! It may cost now, but will save you energy and ease-of-use in the long run. I talk w/ alot of people who are too "lazy" to go 'tubbin because their cover is such a pain to deal with!!

* Portable spa owners will benefit from a layer of foam board insulation under theirs, as they are typically not well insulated on the floor.

* Obstruct prevailing winds with a privacy panel or fence...this sometimes can lead to BIG energy savings.

* Take a peek inside your spa cabinet...can you add some insulation? I recommend foil-faced bubble-wrap, available at most home improvement stores. It's waterproof, cuts w/ scissors, staples/stuffs in and is R3 per 1/4" !! (the 'double-bubble' is best).

* Keep tub out from under drip edges, as water and ice falling on cover/cabinet will drop temps more than normal.

* Closely inspect bottom and top perimeter of your cabinet. Is there any voids where heat is sneaking out, and mice in??

*This is a tough one, but positioning your tub on a South-facing exposure, or in a sun-exposed corner does wonders for melting snow/ice, and keeping temps up on the spa cover vinyl.

* Lastly, be sure to use your spa on the coldest nights when you have a chill...that's why you spent all that money, right??

Winterizing safely...

*) If your spa is new, have your dealer SHOW YOU how to winterize. (we're up North so this is vital) If not avail, and no info in owner's manual, call the company !

*) Common intuition will say to inspect all pipes for loops or low spots where water will get trapped. Disconnect pumps (or plugs) at low points.

*) Use wet/dry shop vac or leaf blower to purge lines if in doubt.

*) Power spa back on and run blower motor if equipped to purge air lines (quickly, as pump may come on - ya got about 80 seconds before trouble if pump seal is dry!)

*) Pull filters & rinse now, if they dry dirty it's over for 'em.

*) Wash underside of cover to prevent mildew in off-season.

*) Put tarp on tub, then strap down your cover over it to keep out rain water & pests.

*) Cap all chems tightly, as most powders will 'wick' in moisture as they are so dry, and bring all liquids inside to prevent freezing.

*) Don't leave pipes open as rodents may camp out.

*) Toss in a box of D-con or our 'MOUSE-AWAY" herbal rodent repellent for safe measure.

*) Contemplate what a wimp you are for not using that tub in the winter with snow building up on your head!